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And the only elephants we see are from the safety of four-wheeled vehicles, including the transfer vehicle that navigates the busier stretches of our route.
We see them down at Minneriya National Park too, which, during the dry season of early autumn, is the setting for 'The Gathering', a pachyderm pool party of impressive proportions.
Hundreds of elephants gather here to graze, rehydrate, sling mud on each other's backs and laugh at the four-wheel drive jeeps that cluster around to watch.
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Thankfully, the only clamour we encounter on the dirt roads that our week-long bike tour favours is the rush of several classes of uniformed children screaming 'hellooo!
' from the windows of their rural primary school, or the shoals of motorbikes with boxes of fish strapped on the back when we wheel our bikes through the street-side fish market of a coastal village.
(Okay, they only look like they're laughing, but it's a convincing look.) What we do see from our saddles are many smaller miracles.
I'm not prepared for quite how glorious peacocks appear in their natural habitat, nor for the chill of eyeing up a pack of golden jackals, even at a safe distance.
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